Cosmopolitan maitre’d Fabio Giacobello wanted to have the city’s consummate chichi restaurant catering to our little alpine republic’s rich, famous, and the want-to-be-seens. Done. Where best to be seen but in this über-designed theater of vanities by architects BEHF with black leather, dark American walnut and black mirrors. The ultimate place to display oneself: the tables by the vast glass front that opens in the summer.

Secondary is the food. Pity. Despite the imaginative preparation of select ingredients, the food remains true to the balanced flavors and presentation of classic Italian cuisine. Witness the risotto al radicchio trevigiano e amarone with fried red mullet in olive and tomatoes. Bravo, Fabio.

Whether the price is justified is not the question. Don’t think. Don’t ask. Just flash that platinum credit card. Impress.