For something more upscale than Di Shui Dong or the neighborhood Hunan eatery, head to Guyi. Its quality selection of Hunanese cuisine in a sassy (complete with chandeliers), sardine-packed environment makes this eatery a temple for cautious China first-timers afraid of traveler’s tummy.

Crowd-pleasers include spicy clams, cold aubergine in spicy and sour sauce, roasted skewered shrimps, spicy fish head with chopped chili and cumin-spiced lamb. The more adventurous should opt for the equally delicious sliced pig’s ears and stir-fried frogs with dried chilies; for the more timid, the menu thankfully comes with English captions and accompanying color photos. Make reservations or be prepared to wait for seats.

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