Mark Williamson took over this space 11 years ago, behind the Palais Royal and a stone’s throw from his first bar-resto Willi’s Wine Bar. First order of business: revamped interiors—modern, turn of the century—and reimagined menus spun around themes like holiday, region or color.

Oft-neglected vegetarians will be ecstatic to find creative choices like vegetable pastille (Moroccan-style pie filled with vegetables) or wild-mushroom crepe. Meanwhile, the “alphabetic” champagne and wine list covers an A to Z range of bottles, from foreign to domestic, light to dark, vintage to new, standard to magnum.