Le Repaire de Cartouche was once the hideout of the notorious 18th-century bandit Louis Dominique Bourguignon, better known as Cartouche. It was transformed into a restaurant in 1900 and since 1997 has been operated by Rodolphe Paquin, the tremendously tall and jolly chef who is often seen roaming the dual-level space and chatting up, invariably, laid-back house DJs or formal French politicians.

Expect a simple seasonal menu with a little touch from Normandy. (Translation: lots of butter. Rodolphe swears that, “avec le beurre toute est meilleur.”) Lunch sees a bistro-style prix-fix for 14 to 17 euros, with the dinner menu offering more interesting and popular entrees such as Le paté en croûte croustillante (meat and vegetable pie) or La tête de cochon (pig’s head). The impressive wine list includes 450 European biologically natural wines. Don’t leave without ordering a pile of biscuits for dessert—cooked with none other than copious amounts of butter.