Even the most scrupulous wine savant would crack a smile at this 1930s-inspired wine bar. One peek at what lurks in the wine lair demonstrates owner Mark Williamson’s flavor for a drop from the Rhône Valley. His personally curated list also includes wines from Languedoc, Bandol, Sherry and from his own California and Oregon-based label, “The Evening Land.” Limited-edition posters for sale, which Williamson commissions himself from different artists, have been another draw for the past 20 years.

Grape-chasers can enjoy a tipple at the shellacky bar or accompany one of the 250-plus wine varieties with savory French cuisine in the toasty dining room. The dishes nearly nudge the vino out of the spotlight, including lamb brochette, ballotine of wild duck with quince marmalade and a stunning chocolate terrine.

Reservations recommended, particularly for lunch.