“Pla” is a distinguished Catalan surname. It belongs not only to the proprietor of this charming restaurant in the Barrio Gotico, but also to the eminent writer Josep Pla. But the word also happens to mean “plain”, which Pla’s owner claims as a watchword for his establishment.

The reality turns out to be slightly less modest. The restaurant’s rather impressive decor includes chandeliers, grand arches and a spacious dining area; the food, too, is rather ornate—Mediterranean-style dishes prepared with exotic, haute cuisine flourishes. “Sea and the Mountains”, for example, combines classic Catalan fare with innovative touches: the creamy mixture of porcini rice, scampi and blood sausage that works delightfully well.

Pla’s “simplicity” is most evident in the friendly service: that typically Catalan knack for delivering creativity without pretension.