Bistronomics: Precisely what the neologism implies, a such-called eatery fuses the requisite comforts of a bistro (crisp efficiency and simple, elegant fare) with an avant-garde approach that has its eye on molecular gastronomy. A new-wave that only recently began making appearances in typically traditionalist Barcelona restaurants, Hisop belongs to this ambitious new breed. Waitresses outfitted in form-hugging black smocks exude a vaguely dom vibe, moving impassive and whisper-soft through the thoroughly modern black-and-red-and-bare dining area; while visionary Chefs Oriol Ivern and Guillem Pla apply modern kitchen techniques that take classic Catalan cuisine to innovative heights.

Supper begins with doughy, dense bread served with a welcome host of top-shelf olive-oil varietals; the meal precedes thusly—evolving the expected into the daring. A Michelin star-recipient, Hisop earns its cred with punchy, delicious offerings, like a single razor clam, grilled and swaddled in thyme foam and blood-orange emulsion.