Though it still bears the name of the local folks that ran a café here from 1889 to 1967 and the interior is still exactly as it was then, the cuisine now offered here is as Italian as the new owners.

The menu is rustic and affordable, featuring solid Mediterranean staples like ravioli and other pastas. The wine selection is just as terrific, but don’t try too many of Koevoet’s excellent grappas, the canals around here often don’t have railings.

Since the restaurant fills up fast, it’s best to book in advance.