Despite international recognition and occasional exhibitions hosting non-Polish artists, Zachęta stands in the center of Warsaw foremost as a stage for homegrown contemporary talents.

The looming building survived Poland’s Nazi occupation only for brazen German soldiers to loot the invaluable art and culture stockpiles during WWII. And not content with robbing it blind, the copious traces of flammable chemicals left by the retreating German army at the end of the war suggest Zachęta almost didn’t make it to see 1946.

The good news is it still stands today—albeit with a facelift after the Warsaw Uprising gave it a few scars—and if you want to see some of the best and latest in contemporary Polish art, make this your first tour stop on the Warsaw art and culture trail.