A delicatessen of superlatives. “The largest, ripest cheese selection,” “the rarest poultry,” “the most exquisite delicacies known to human kind…” For shorthand’s sake, compare it to Harrod’s Food Hall in London. But that would not do justice to the “Viennese-ness” of Meinl am Graben.

The gourmet empire as founded by coffee trader Julius Meinl in 1861. A controversial legacy is its logo: the Meinl “Moor”, a black boy in a fez serving coffee. Despite several attempts to modernize it, including efforts by no less than Italian designer Matteo Thun, the Moor serves a reminder of Meinl’s history as colonialist trading company and of Austria’s still underdeveloped sensitivity to racial representations. Souvenirs are to be had—from historical posters from the 20’s to a black-faced statuette.

For gourmet gifts, house brand “Meinl Collection” offers very fine preserves, wines, sweets and, of course, the coffees. All in well-designed packaging—but still with the little reminder of an imperial heritage.