Guide
Vienna
Morbid Moments
Wien stirbt anders

Death flourishes in Vienna. Call us morbid, but no where else in the world do business cards with addresses of the final resting place come out of wallets. The city’s sweeping grave yards could be mistaken for pastoral parks, if not for the abundance of statues and headstones. No wonder, as cabaret artist Georg Kreisler once mused, “Death must be Viennese.”

Even more apparent is the city’s twisted relationship with the Grim Reaper. During the 1930s, Vienna laid claim as the most suicidal city on earth at a rate of 58 per 100,000 self-inflicted deaths per year. From the weird ways the Viennese helped their own move onto the afterlife, to the city they’ve constructed to house their deceased, learn all about Vienna’s morbid obsession, below.

Places in this guide

  • Kapuzinergruft Capuchins’ crypt

    The amount of tours given here is almost as numerous as at Maria Theresa’s burial place. Book very early.

  • Bestattungsmuseum Ashes to ashes, dust to dust...

    Historically, as funeral processions made its way through the city center in the evening, flickering candles cast an orange light through the streets. The Habsburgers originally created these orchestrations; later the middle class imitated them. The State Opera House choir sang at funerals and the bodies were staged for a souvenir photo.

  • Friedhof der Namenlosen Cemetery of the Nameless

    The last burial took place in 1940 (although a cross with the year 1953 can be found). Since then, the unknown dead from the Danube river have been buried in the Central Cemetery. But they’re not forgotten: Every year after All Saints’ Day the nameless drowned corpses at the cemetery are remembered with a float of flowers and wreaths.

  • Narrenturm Driving me crazy

    After a spate of casualties at the turn of the 20th century in the new profession of electrical workers, physician, Stefan Jellinek, began to research accident sites. He documented and collected material until he received the first professorship in Electropathology in 1929. After his forced emigration and a multi-decade-long odyssey with the collection, it was transferred to the Technical Museum in 2002. Because the wet specimens are presently located in the Pathology-Anatomy Museum in the Narrenturm, special tours are offered there.

  • Kriminalmuseum Smooth criminal

    This legendary ’50s song says it all: Kriminaltango, in der Taverne. Dunkle Gestalten..Und rotes Licht.
    Roughly translated: “Criminal tango in the tavern…dark figures…and red light.”

  • Catacombs of St. Stephan Beautiful down to the bone

    These catacombs came about at a time when burial industries were so over-occupied that tons of bodies were unceremoniously dumped onto a slide leading directly to the catacombs. In the 19th century, brave monks and criminals were handed the unsavory task of cleaning up the premises. All this to say: never say that there is no job worse than yours.

  • Ruprechtskirche The holy salt-traders

    The Church of St. Ruprecht is generally considered to be the oldest church in Vienna, although recent excavation underneath the Peterskirche and the Stephansdom have brought up a dispute about the facticity of this claim. What is known is… read more

  • Jüdischer Friedhof Rossau Room with a view

    You’ll want to visit the magnificent sarcophagus of Samson Wertheimer, who was buried here in 1724.

  • Währinger Friedhof Vienna's Abandoned Jewish Cemetery

    Tucked away behind the cemetery walls lies a veritable gem of the Biedermeier period. Founded in 1784 under Emperor Josef II, Währinger Friedhof is one of Vienna’s oldest Jewish cemeteries.

  • Zentralfriedhof Europe´s largest Cementry

    While Vienna of the living was about to burst at the seams, a second city for the dead emerged on the outskirts with a central square, city walls, districts, boulevards, and a main street.
    We are referring to the Zentralfriedhof (Central Cemetery), half the size of Zurich and twice as much fun. Serious! With 2.5 million square meters, three million dead, up to 40 burials daily, 20 nursery operations, three tram stops, a train station and its own bus system, the Jugendstil church “Zum Heiligen Karl Borromäus”, a baby cemetery, and one of the few Buddhist cemeteries outside of Asia, no wonder it is worth a visit from the living, too.
    Among the numerous Ehrengräber (honorary graves) lie Johann Strauss, father and son as well as Brahms, Nestroy, Beethoven, Bruno Kreisky, Arnold Schönberg, Curd Jürgens and Helmut Qualtinger, who once said: “You first have to die in Vienna before you are celebrated, but then you live for a long time.” That applies to Sisi and Falco as well. To reach the Zentralfriedhof in proper style, take the “Widow Express”, otherwise known as tramline 71.

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