This Oberkampf restaurant has enough red meat on hand to make any patchouli-wearing vegan recoil in horror. Not only does the menu propose every imaginable cut of Argentinean beef possible—steak, sirloin, rib steak, hampe, filet and travers, for starters—but an on-premise reconverted butcher’s shop packages up these goods in wax paper and string for those who prefer to grill at home.

Unico’s all-orange and aluminum facade and interior have been entirely renovated to appeal to those with retro-design sensibilities, while the meat and sides are studies in perfect simplicity. The Argentinean staff wield powerful sommelier knowledge, nudging patrons in the direction of Malbecs or Primitivos to pair with your medium-rare. Artery-clogging meds are an extra; reservations at this protein crowdpleaser, a must.