On a wall inside Le Tambour, a mural depicts a merry round of surreal creatures swigging wine and discussing life. It’s a fitting analogy for the place, where an eclectic mix of night owls imbibe and feast until its daily 6am closing time.

You might too—once you’ve grown accustomed to the radical French anarchist of an owner and his croonies, that is. The kitchen churns out classic dishes that will make any vegetarian cringe, and until an unprecedented 4am hour: homemade foie gras, cheese plates and the “piéce du boucher,” a dish based around a big, fresh slice of beef. House tradition calling for “vin á la ficelle”—full bottles of red or white served at your table in a pay-as-you-please manner—seals the deal that makes Le Tambour the best after-hours joint in Paris.