The Paris base of the gastronomical God made flesh Joël Robuchon, L’Atelier Saint-Germain reflects the Michelin mastery of a chef with more stars than any other. Raising a few eyebrows when it opened back in 2003, this red and black lacquered new breed is a stark departure from the white-tableclothed world of the classic restaurant Français—boldly pushing the boundaries of modern haute cuisine in the same way it boldly pushes the accepted notions of restaurant decor. Set up more like a tapas bar with high stools round a U-shaped bar, L’Atelier packs an oft-changing menu filled with traditional Robuchon specialties as well as more nouveau creations (caramelized quail stuffed with foie gras par example). It’s all so good that you’ll be pushing some limits of your own—that of acceptable behaviour, as you lick the last drops off your plate.




















