Chef Harold Dieterle has taken a well-considered clamber into his family tree, curating a menu that pays equal homage to both his Germanic and Italian roots. Pull up a pew in the classy dining area—dark wooden floors, stencilled walls and red-leather, crescent-moon booths—and you’ll be greeted with the schizophrenic (inventive rather than psychotic) menu split straight down the middle—one side stamped with famiglia Chiarelli, the other with Familie Dieterle. From the Chiarelli camp there’s dishes such as skillet-braised cuttlefish and spaghettini while the denizens of Dieterle bring pan-fried duck schnitzel and homemade Jagerwurst to the table. And then there’s the signature bone marrow dish (slide three above)—conclusive proof that if sticks and stones do break some bones then at least what’s inside can be served up with… sea urchin and fried potatoes! Damn tasty too.

In a neighborhood where swanky new eateries rampantly and regularly emerge from the woodwork, Sweetwater Restaurant is an unassuming staple of the scene. Dishing up a mixture of French and New-American fare, the food pairs well with the intimate vibe. Expect thoughtfully prepared classic dishes with a soupçon of innovation, such as the house burger served atop an English muffin or fresh watermelon salad offered exclusively during the summer season. Weekday nights are a prime choice for avoiding the droves, although brunch in the outside garden is a perfect option if timed right. Just don’t come empty-handed; Sweetwater is cash only and could cost a pretty penny.