A rare example of refined drinking and dining in otherwise bustling Brixton, Upstairs Bar is a small and secluded jewel in South London’s gastronomic crown. It’s all too easy to miss it if you’re not concentrating, as the pride of the block is neatly tucked away in an anonymous-looking Victorian corner house. Admittance relies on ringing a bell and asking to be let in—apprehensive diners, work through it. Once inside, a winding staircase leads you to an elegant and unpretentious first floor bar with an open fire, reclaimed wooden floors and leather banquettes; cool out with fine French wines suggested by friendly, knowledgeable bar staff, and divine cheese plates.

The intimate second floor dining room encourages a laid-back environment, perfect for understated meals with someone special or small private parties. The menu is compact—in keeping with the scale of the venue—offering a selection of three Gallic dishes per course. The menu changes each fortnight, but signature dishes include cherished grilled sardines and classic steak tartare with melon and port. Upstairs Bar provides relaxed, discreet surroundings with choice Francophile fare and wonderful wines. Once you’ve settled into one of those cosy banquettes in front of the roaring fire and get to know the pinot noir in your glass, you just won’t want to leave.