There are expensive restaurants in London… And then there’s Umu. Kaiseki sets—which, as Umu is the UK’s only Kyoto-style Japanese restaurant, are the true selling point—begin at £60 and soar to £250 per head. So avoid this place if you’re looking for a humble bento or a quick California roll (and head instead to the brilliant Chinatown-based Tokyo Diner or the always reliable Taro on Soho’s Old Compton Street).

But if your pockets are deep, the evening will not disappoint. The secret push-button doors slide open off a quiet Mayfair street, setting a glamorous, James Bond-style scene. Cocooned in dark wood and separated by discreet screens, diners are served by a super attentive staff. The atmosphere is calm and sanctuary-like; the menu peaks with dishes like sake-flavoured orange jelly topped with salty caviar and tai ushio (soup with ginger and sea bream); the sake list is one of the most extensive in London. But for all Umu’s upscale trickery, you can’t help but feel you could find similarly tasty food elsewhere—without the astronomic price tag.