Good restaurants are hard to find in Hackney, and ones as good as LMNT deserve to be cherished. A shining example of how to do decadent dining at affordable prices, it manages to be both hip and kitsch.

The decor is the main draw: fabulously OTT with a mish-mash of Roman and Egyptian statues, a few Cleopatra figurines, the odd sphinx and Greek god and a hilarious mural of rural Tuscany. Drapes cover the ceiling, adding a boudoir feel, and there’s even the chance to eat your dinner seated inside a giant urn or secreted away up a ladder.

A hit with Hackney hipsters, it’s been described as the “poor man’s Trois Garcons”. Which seems to make sense, apart from the fact the grub is miles better at Les Trois. Unimaginative at best, the Mediterranean fare matches the prices, but with starters like steamed moules and smoked haddock tart priced at £3.45, mains such as confit of lamb shoulder and fillet of sea bream all at £8.95, and scrummy desserts including banana tart tatin at £3.45, who could complain?