Be it pasta primavera or funghi misti pizza, the culinary exports from the great boot-shaped land also known as Italy, are a universal comfort food. Italian eateries, whether upscale or low-brow, all follow more-or-less a similar formula. Lavanderia Vecchia radically departs from convention—with its utterly bizarre florescent tube lights covering the walls, reams of towels hanging from the ceiling, and cigarette-package low-relief sculpture—and then blows your mind by offering fare with a homemade (versus restaurant) taste and flair.