It can be tough living in the shadow of a big sibling. Lava, the little bro of acclaim-hoarder Lavanderia Vecchia, is having none of that—having taken over the front of the same Flughafenstraße building. By no means is Lava content playing a mere supporting role, it’s not even going after the same formula. Replace the belly-busting set menu with a more refined à la carte offering and a focus that stretches beyond the Italian peninsula into the wider Med.
The first room doubles up as a deli-type establishment, with a mamma-mia meat counter housing a deluge of carefully-cured hams and stink-tastic cheeses—from which you can whip up your own delicacies zu Hause. Then, follow through to the other rooms—one with an LED-light adorned leaking bathtub (art, presumably) and the other a more intimate, low-lit affair of surrealist dark greens and black-white checkerboards. It all lends the Trattoria, a curious Alice-in-Wonderland feel that detracts from the food not a jot. Lava is a sequel, but its top-notch cuisine and quirky touches are the match of its original, no doubt about that.