This sparkling restaurant, situated a stone’s throw from commercial-heavy Passeig de Gràcia, does its name justice by carving out a rock-solid identity. Executive chef Thang Pham, an energetic firecracker of a man, gives patrons a whirlwind lesson in foods from the world—from New Orleans to Saigon to Barcelona—and the tapas here reflect these wildly disparate ethnic groups in a minimal setting enriched with eclectic touches—ties dangling from lamps, an exposed brick wall, illustrated murals.

It sounds strange, but it works. Grilled cups of calamari topped with lettuce are equal parts savory and crunchy, a whole sole fish is pure, honest cooking, and triangular chunks of tofu drizzled in soy sauce feel familiar yet new at once. It’s a theme that runs throughout—on our second visit to Me, Pham instantly recognized us.